minicopter ® - RC-Helikopter und Zubehör - Enter your slogan here

1. We start with the mainrotor shaft unit 1 (bag 1). For this we prepare the upper side frames D01 and D02. It is recommended to slightly sand down all carbon frame edges with fine sandpaper (ca. 240 grain) or a small rasp (preferably of high quality and unused), so that no wire or rubber ring can be damaged on their sharp edges. This step is not entirely necessary, but increases, at least theoretically, operational safety. The front lower corner of the long, rectangular aileron servo cutout should be slightly worked over with a rasp, so that this corner is square. This is necessary for correct perpendicular installation of the main rotor shaft.

2. The initial assembling of the Diabolo is done on the side frame upper right D02 and finally the upper left side frame D01 will be attached. The lower ball bearing block main shaft D16 and the main bearing bracket D17 are attached to the side frame upper right D02 with five hex screws M3x8 D82. Please do not forget – and this is essential for the entire construction of the model, to apply some thread-lock e.g. Loctite 243 (blue) to all screws, that are mot secured with a lock nut. Additionally pay careful attention to the fact, that the ball bearings, of these two bearing blocks, are flange ball bearings. The side of the flange with the larger diameter diameter has always to be on the inside, i.e. the flanges of the bearings of the main bearing block have to be positioned below and those of the lower main rotor shaft bearing blocks (and later of the lower gearing rack) at the top. Please therefore pay attention to the correct positioning of the brackets in the following assembly pictures.
Insert the main rotor shaft D14 into the bearing blocks and check that he shaft runs parallel to the front edge of the aileron servo cut-out. If this is not the case, the above described cutout corner has to be filed out some more.

3. As the next step the hub main shaft D12 has to be bolted together with the main shaft D13 by using 6 hex screws M3x8 D82 and 6 washers M3 002. It is essential that the side with the short collar (diameter 26mm) is pushed into the gear wheel while the bolt threads are aligned. Fasten the screws in star fashion to avoid tension.

4. The assembled unit will now be inserted, with the distance bush D15, between the main rotor shaft blocks. The tightness should be such, that when holding it sideways nothing falls out, but no tighter. If it is too loose, please add a shim washer 10x16x0.1 048 or 0.2 033 between the hub and spacer. Then insert main rotor shaft D14 from top and fix to main gear hub jesus bolt D77 (M4x20) and the M4 lock nut 009. Finally check, if the unit turns smoothly and without binding the brackets.

5. Next is the construction of the First Stage gearing assembly (bag 2). The one-way hub D06 is screwed onto the First Stage gear wheel D07 with x6 hex bolts M3x8 D82 and x6 M3 washers 002. The short hub of the one-way casing goes into the gear. Just as with the main gear wheel the bolts should also be tightened up in star-fashion. The lower endplate disc D09b (bevel angled inwards!) is attached to the belt wheel D09 using x3 hex lens-head screws M3x6 D99. Now the First Stage gear train is assembled. Starting with the assembled one-way unit, the distance bush D05 is pushed onto the main shaft. Please do not lubricate the oneway bearing with a lubricant of unknown suitability, but leave with the original grease filling.
On the upper end of the shaft First Stage the pinion is placed together with two set screws M4x4 D105, lightly fastened for the time being, this means the pinion sits nice and loose on the machined shaft flats. From below the shim washer for the front belt wheel D08 and the belt wheel itself D09 is pushed on with the pulley hub side (containing two set screws M4x5 D106) pointing downwards. Here also the pulley is positioned on the machined shaft flats under a set screw D106 to make a snug fit.

6.The preassembled First Stage unit is pushed into the front ball bearing of the main bearing plate D17 and the end of the shaft is aligned flush with the upper edge of the ball bearing. The First Stage gear should sit mid way in the frame gear cut-out.

7. The toothed tail drive belt 713 is mounted onto the pulley wheel followed by two shim washers, 8x14x0.5 047 and 8x14x0.2 011 and finally the First Stage lower bearing block D11 (with the ball bearing flange pointing upwards). The lower bearing block is fixed with two hex bolts M3x8 D82. After that all the set screws of the gearing assembly are tightened so that no end-float occurs but the unit turns nice and smoothly.

8. Now follows the assembly of the tail-boom unit (bag 3). For this the tail boom D21 is inserted into the two tail boom holders D22 together with x2 hex bolts M3x40 D93 and M3 washers 3x6x1 051. For a good static-grounding connection, the anodising finish at the front of the boom should be removed over a small area to ensure a good electrical connection. To pull the belt through the boom, use a long bent wire, inserted into the boom from the rear end and pulling the loop of the belt to the back, with the boom in position in the chassis. Make that thw groove cut-outs in the rear part of the tail boom are lying horizontal. Ensure the correct orientation of the belt - if it points straight to the rear, lying horizontal, you will have to turn it by 90° to the right (looking from the rear). Finally the tail boom supports are attached to the chassis with x4 hex bolts M3x8 D82.

9. Now the tail gear unit is prepared. First the tail pulley wheel D46 is fitted on both sides with endplate discs (bevels angled inwards!) using x3 hex lens-head screws M3x6 D99. Pay attention again, that only one bolt is inserted into each thread hole, alternating thread holes from each side. Push the tail fin holder D44, from the front, onto the tail rotor housing D43, so that it is positioned as shown in the picture.

10. The two threads in the boom locking shoes D43a and also the two hex bolts M3x10 D83 are coated generously with Loctite. After full insertion of the bolts you will have to loosen these up again by 2 revolutions to allow the tail boom to seat fully in its housing (maybe make a mark before inserting shoes to check full insertion point). Finally tighten the two bolts while preventing the boom locking shoes from becoming crooked using for example a screw driver inserted from behind.
Now place the tail shaft belt wheel D46 in the belt 713 and add the bush belt wheel spacer D47 on the flangeless side of the belt wheel with the bearing ledge pointing outwards. Now insert everything in the housing D43. A slight endplay is more beneficial than bearings running under tension. It should be less than 0.1mm though, otherwise add a shim washer 5x10x0.1 044.

11. The tail rotor shaft D45 is pushed through two bearings 068, installed in the housing D43 and the belt wheel D46 and fixed with a set screw M4x4 D105, which reaches from the belt wheel into the rotor shaft. Please ensure teh set screw is sitting on the shaft flat.

12. The completion of the gear assembly is continued with the mounting parts (bag 4). The upper right roll servo holder D18 is attached with two hex bolts M3x8 D82. The front x-shaped cross stiffener D26 is fixed with two hex bolts M3x8 D82. The vertical U-profile D28 is attached with x2 hex bolts M3x8 D81 and M3 lock nuts 008. The horizontal U-profile  now has x2 spacers D29 attached with x2 hex bolts M3x6 D81. Horizontal U-profile is now fixed into with hex bolt M3x8 D82 and M3 locknut 008 into the front hole and hex bolt M3x10 D83 through the rear mounting hole secured with rear canopy holder D63. The canopy holder can be turned from the outside using cotter pin 060 whilst holding the M3 bolt with an Allen key from the inside (picture further below).

13. We continue assembling the belt damper. First two ball bearings 3x13x5 D68 are screwed onto the fixed roller block D19 with a hex bolt M3x16 D86. Don’t forget washer 3x6x1 051 between the roller block and the ball bearing! Should the ball bearings turn stiffly after tightening, remove them and turn one bearing over. After that everything should be turning easily. Now also two bearings 3x13x15 D68 are screwed onto the 8mm wide arm of the bell crank with a hex bolt M3x16 D86 and a washer 3x6x1 051. Please check the correct orientation, see picture.

14. The tensioner unit is now screwed to carrier D24 with a hex bolt M3x16 D86 and a washer 3x6x1 051. Finally this assembly as well as the fixed roller crank are screwed into the appropriate positions of the chassis using x4 hex bolts M3x8 D82.

15. To complete uper frame assembly the upper roll servo holder D18 is screwed onto the left upper frame D01 with two hex bolts M3x8 D82. The left frame is then fixed onto the right frame assembly with x18 hex bolts M3x8 D82 (don’t forget Loctite 243), one hex bolt M3x10 D83 into the rear canopy holder D63 and x3 M3 locknuts 008. The tail belt must not be tightened yet at this point. Turn all screws until stop point and then back off ¼ turn. Cjeck the height of the shaft plastic wheel in the frame cut-out and adjust if necessary by adding or removing shim washers between bearing block D11 and belt wheel D09. Once happy tighten up all bolts and locknuts as appropriate!

16. After this the tail boom can be adjusted. The tension of the belt is adjusted in such a way, that the belt crank will slightly tighten the belt by pushing the crank “full left” with minimal force. Shock absorber D34 is now attached to bell crank D25 with a hex bolt M3x10 D83 and to the frame with a distance bush D35 as well as a hex bolt M3x18 D87 and a M3 locknut 008. Which frame fixing hole you use depends on the temperature difference between assembling place and air field as well as personal aeronautical preference. Start with the third hole from the rear and play around with the adjustments until you find your preferred position.

17. The lower chassis (bag 5) consists of the two lower frames D40 (left) and D40a (right), the ESC plate D42 and several connection pieces. We start by fitting the silicone tube 10x1 D114 onto the Delrin frame connectors x2 D38 and x2 D39. For that purpose we cut 4 adequate pieces with a knife and preferably fit them to the connectors under warm water. Please ensure that the two connectors with the bore holes are fitted to the front and that the holes are aligned vertically. Perforate the silicone tubes over the bore holes with a pointed item. Now position the four connectors in the upper chassis and fix with x8 hex bolts M3x16 D86 inserted through the x8 battery 0-ring holders D57, then through the lower chassis into the holes of the upper chassis and then on into frame connectors (NB do not use Loctite on these fixings nor a screw gun as this may damage or melt the plastic!). The best way to screw the connectors together is to turn the screws from both sides at the same time using two hex wrenches. Make sure that the lower frames are correctly orientated - the left lower frame has a cutout on its rear upper edge ri make room for teh rudder servo horn.
The screws of the two spacers in teh front can onyl be tightened after the ESC plate D42 has been fixed on with 4 hex countersunk M3x6 bolts D96.

18. Now the two landing bow holders D41 are screwed on with x6 hex bolts M3x8 D82. The rearmost holes are only loosely fitted with hex bolts M3x14 D85, as the tail boom supports will be later screwed on here. The two lower battery support rods D64 are screwed on with 4 hex bolts M3x8 D82. Finally the upper and lower frame sides are joined together in the very front and the very back with x4 hex bolts M3x8 D82 and x4 locknuts 008.

19. The front canopy supports D62 are screwed on with 2 hex lens bolts M3x10 D101. To turn the holder use the included 2.5mm piece of wire.

20. For mounting the motor (bag 6) first the motor mount D36 or D36a (for Pyro) are screwed on the motor. Depending on the type of motor either x4 hex lens bolts M4x8 D104 or x4 hex bolts M3x8 D82 are used. If the motor shaft does not come with a machined flat surface, then please grind one on (about 0.5 mm deep) where one of the two set screws M4x5 D106 of the pinion will be screwed onto. Now the motor is attached to the chassis with 4 hex bolts M3x8 D82 and M3 washers 002. The motor pinion & gearwheel spacing must be adjusted to provide about 0.3mm backlash before motor mounting bolts are fully tightened.

21. When fixing the pinion onto the motor shaft about 0.5 to 1mm clearance should allowed from the motor mount plate to the underside of the pinion – final adjustment is best done after a trial fitting to the chassis to ensure full contact with the first stage plastic gearwheel.

22. Now we proceed with mounting the landing gear (bag 7). Both landing bows D56 will be fitetd with x4 clamps 742. Please note that the rear landing bow D56b is about 8mm higher than the front landing bow D56a. Also the front edge of the bows are straight, while the rear edge are slightly tapered towards the ends. The skids 902 are pushed carefully through the clamps and protrude 32mm from the rear of the clamps. The skids are positioned vertically and screwed onto the rear clamps and secured with x2 self-tapping screws 2.2x6.5 094 after drilling two holes with a 1.8mm drill bit.

23. After that the rear landing bow is screwed onto the chassis with two hex bolts M4x8 D104 and the front landing bow will be adjusted lengthwise and also screwed on. The rudder fin will be attached with two hex bolts M3x8 D82 onto the bellcrank holder D44.

24. Now the control unit (bag 8) is assembled. The roll servos have their wires threaded through the lower main rotor shaft bearing block and exit into the long gap between the two U-profiles. Each roll servo is screwed on with 4 hex bolts M3x12 D84 and 4 washers M3 002.

25. The elevator servo is attached to the upper right side frame D02 with x4 hex bolts M3x22 D89, x4 distance bushes D20, x4 washers M3 002 and x4 lock nuts M3 008. The servo cable is pushed into the frame hole below the servo and the rubber grommet for servo D80 is put onto the servo cable and inserted into the hole on the side frame.

26. The best way to bend the servo cable around the corner is with the help of a small wrench and a long screwdriver, so that it is drawn through the same slot as the roll servos. The three servo cables are secured with a cable tie at the base of the vertical U-profile, preferably positioned on the far left. Do not cut the end of the cable tie short as per usual, but leave a 2cm length, so the cable cannot slide out to the front.

27. The installation of the tail rotor servo is slightly unusual. First the two L-shaped tail servo holders D23 are screwed onto the rubber grommet with x4 hex bolts M3x12 D84 and x4 M3 washers 002. If you are using a servo with 2.5mm grommet bushes please omit those. Now the two threaded blocks D23a will be attached to the inside of the body with x2 hex bolts M3x8 D82, note the front block lies vertically and the rear block lies horizontally.

28. For installation the tail servo is tilted into the cut-out, beginning with the cable outlet, and screwed on with x2 hex bolts M3x16 D86 and a lot of Loctite. Please take care to attach the tail servo holders as vertically as possible.

29. Next step the linkages between the servos and the swash plate will be assembled. For this you push the black swash leveller D121 onto the main rotor shaft D14 and thread on the swash plate D50. X6 ball joints D72 will be screwed onto x3 push rods for swash-servo linkage D54 with the help of the milled wrench D73 and the included 4" monkey-wrench D120. The final length of the push rods varies, depending on the servo type used. With Futaba BLS451 the length of the roll servo push rods is 102.5mm overall length, measured after sanding down the injection flash on the ball links. The elevator servo push rod is 101mm long. The servo arms need drilling holes of 2.7mm (7/64”) diameter, drilled out very slowly. With the 3mm thick Futaba T-arms (which two of their arms carefully removed) the outer hole will be used, which has an arm-lever distance of 18.5mm.

30. Now the ball joints are attached to the servo arms from the inside with x3 hex lens bolts M3x16 D103 and washers M3 002. Because of the servo arm is drilled to 2.7mm (7/64”) the bolt cuts a thread automatically into the servo arm. On the rear side of each arm you secure the bolt with an M3 washer 002 and an M3 lock nut 008. Caution: with the elevator servo push rod the ball joint is attached on the other side.

31. The prepared push rod units are pushed onto the servo output shaft. The final assembly of these will be done later, since first the neutral position of the servos, by the flybarless system, has to be found. Now the roll servo push rods are screwed onto the arms of the swash-outer ring provisionally, with no Loctite as yet, using x2 hex lens bolts M3x18 D104 and 2 swash conical spacer bushes D58. The rear elevator push rod is fitted with a hex screw M3x30 D91, the anti-rotation device bush (brass) D55 and from the opposite side, as done with the roll servos, a swash conical spacer bush D58 will be pushed on and provisionally screwed onto the rear swash hole. Now while the push rods are virtually vertical the correct length of the push rods will be checked (servo arms horizontal and square) and readjusted if necessary.

32. If everything is ok, all three push rods will be detached again, the swash blade holder D53 pushed onto the brass distance bush D55 of the elevator push rod and each pair of threads will be lubricated with an abundance of Loctite 243 and screwed together tightly again. Finally the swash anti-rotation device D33 is fixed with 2 distance bush swash blades D32 and 2 hex screws M3x25 D90, using also a lot of Loctite. Now remove the bearing ring to check the free movement of the elevator swash bush in the anti-rotation device. For this it is necessary to disconnect the servo arm. If the tube has difficulties moving downwards, both screws of the anti-rotation device have to be tightened up. A slight clearance should be there, to assure a free-movement control. If everything is ok, all three push rods are detached again, the swash anti-rotation device D53 pushed onto the brass spacer bush D55 of the elevator push rod and each pair of threads coated liberally with Loctite 243 and screwed together tightly again. Finally the swash anti-rotation device is fixed with x2 spacer bushes D32 and x2 hex screws M3x25 D90 into the upper bearing block using plenty of Loctite. Now remove the swash leveller to check the free movement of the elevator swash bush in the antirotation device. For this it is necessary to disconnect the servo arm. If the bush has difficulties running fully downward in the anti-rotation device, both screws of the anti-rotation device have to be tightened up. A slight clearance should be there, to assure a free-movement control.

33. Rotor head (bag 9): First the two O-ring bushes 586 are fitted with two O-rings 591, slightly lubricated and pushed into the recesses of the main rotor hub D52. The feathering spindle 521 is inserted next and centred.

34. The rotor head cap 580 is installed with x4 hex lens bolts M3x6 D99. From each side one after another will be slid on: a 0.5mm shim washer 047, a 16x8x5 radial ball bearing 071, a blade grip mounting bush 509, a thrust bearing 100, a shim washer 8x14x0.5 047 and again another radial ball bearing 071. Note that the shim of the thrust bearing with the larger inner diameter (8.2mm) must be mounted first and the other one (8.0mm) is mounted outsides. if you have no caliper to measure that you can simply put both shims onto the shaft. The shim that can be tilted more is the inner shim. 

35. Each side is secured with a hexagon socket bolt M5x12 034 and x2 washers each side 5x10x1 052 – the spindle thread and the bolt should be degreased before assembly and coated with Loctite as per usual practice. The inner thrust bearing race, which sits loosely on the spindle shaft and the bearing cage open side facing inwards, are lubricated slightly with grease. The outer thrust bearing race is a tighter fit on the spindle. The unit will now be firmly tightened with x2 4mm hex cross handle wrenches. Before the M5 screws are tightened with Loctite the following procedure should be done for finding the best pre-load of the feather-spindle unit to avoid O-ring extrusion from the rotor hub in extreme flight. Add on the outside of each side (between shim washer 047 and radial bearing 071) about 0.2-0.3mm more of shim washers. Then tighten the M5 bolts until you feel that the radial bearings become notchy. In that case then undo the M5 bolts, remove 0.1mm of shim on each side and tighten again. Repeat this procedure until the M5 bolts are locked and the radial bearings just run smooth. Then add Loctite to the M5 screws and tighten them. After tightening the feathering spindle, turn the spindle about one revolution to equalise tension across the rotor head. Then the unit should be cleaned of grease and each bearing assembly rolled over a flat surface, so all components are aligned concentrically. This will assist sliding-on of the blade grips 538. Warm the blade grips with a heat gun or in the oven at about 150°C/300°F and push them on, holding with an oven-cloth to avoid burned fingers(!) so that they are aligned to the bolt holes. With a 2mm hex socket wrench, or similar, it is possible to line-up the holes in the grips with the thread holes in the grip holding spacer.

36. After cooling down, the blade grip arms D53 will be screwed on with a hex bolt M3x8 D82 and a hex bolt M3x14 D85 (do not tighten too much yet). Put x2 hex bolts M3x6 D81 in each of the free bore holes of the blade grips. Then the blade grips are pulled forcefully outwards, and the gap to the damping inserts 586 checked for symmetry. If everything is consistent, all hex screws will be tightened up. Finally the rotor head is checked for free and even movement.

37. The two swash driver arms D65 are attached to the rotor hub with hex lens bolts M3x10 D101 with an intervening shim washer 3x6x0.3 D110. The other side of the swash drivers are screwed together with two swash plate driver bushes 593, two hex lens screws M3x12 D102, two ball joints 385 and two Philips screws M2.5x12 507. Check the swash drivers for free-movement, rock slightly if rough running, until the relevant ball bearing settles. Now carefully screw in 2 ball-joint bolts M3x4 076 opposite to each other into the inside ring of the swash plate (do not tighten too much!). Then the 10mm bore of the main rotor hub is slightly oiled together with the end of the main rotor shaft and the rotor head is pushed on without twisting and secured with a special Jesus bolt M4x26 D78 and an M4 lock nut 009. If the bolt does not fit through, please rotate the rotor head onto the main rotor shaft turned by 180°. Then the ball joints, with labelling facing out, are clipped onto the rocker arm. Two M4x30 blade bolts 090 are fixed on loosely to the blade grips with x2 M4 lock nuts 009.

38. The rotor head push rods will be assembled out of 4 ball joints D72, turnbuckle-control rods 199a and x4 hex lens bolts M3x12 D102. The length over all is 62mm. Please note that if the left-handed thread is to be placed on the upper part of the grip, then later clockwise turning will lead to reduced angle of pitch at the rotor blade.

39. Now the tail rotor (bag 10) is assembled. First push onto the tail rotor hub 110 the spacer bush 979 (concavity facing inwards!), then a radial ball bearing 942, a tail rotor mount ring 980, a 0.2mm shim washer 054, another radial ball bearing 942, another 0.2mm shim washer 054 and a thrust bearing 5x10x4 112. Note that the shim of the thrust bearing with the larger inner diameter (5.2mm) must be mounted first (this (inner) shim tilts more on the shaft than the other (outer) shim, see pic above). The unit will be fixed with a 1mm M3 washer 051 and a hex lens bolt M3x8 024. Check both sides after installation for free-movement, a slight endplay clearance is recommended. Now the tail blade grips 951 are slid on and secured with four Philips bolts 492 and four washers 988. Tighten the screws very cautious and do not overtightem them. The function of these screws is to fix the blade grips in axle direction, so a small tightening is really enough. Doing this you should give the blade grips a good pull outwards.

40. The joint balls 078 are screwed into the tail blade grips. Then the ball joints 385 are screwed onto the pre-assembled tail pitch slider 1471. The ball joints are then clipped onto the rotor ball links, whilst the assembly is still unmounted to the tail shaft and checked for free-movement. If one of the ball joints
turns noticeably tighter than the other, push carefully with a pair of pliers on the rougher running ball joint 385, so that it expands somewhat. Now assemble the tail pitch slider 1471 and tail rotor onto the tail shaft. Finally the tail rotor is secured with a hexagon socket set screw M4x5 035, which will be screwed into tail rotor hub 110 and making sure it fastens onto the machined flat of the tail rotor shaft D45.

41. Attach the tail rotor blades, either of plastic or carbon fibre, with the help of x2 hex bolts M3x25 D90, x4 Chinese weight spacers 952 and x2 M3 lock nuts 008 onto the blade grips. Now install the bell crank D49. For this a ball joint D116 is attached into the long end of the bell crank facing away from the crank hub. The slider guide bush 347 is attached onto the other end and side of the bell-crank using a lens headed bolt M3x8 092 and M3 nut D117. The bell crank can now be screwed onto the tail fin holder D44 from below using a hex bolt M3x16 D85 and an intervening washer 455 laid over the bell crank. Following this insert the ball of the slider 1471 into the guide bush 347. Finally check the whole unit for free-movement. The slider should regularly receive a drop of oil on the tail rotor shaft. Before finally assembling the tail gearbox the black anodizing should always be removed from a short patch of the boom with a piece of sand paper to ensure static grounding.

42. Now the tail boom clamp D70 can be clipped on carefully onto the tail boom allowing the ends to twist rather than just being pulled apart!. The tail pushrod guides D59, D60, D66 will be installed as shown on the pictures .The tool will be made out of a simple paper clip.

43. Doing this for the first time, the help of a second person is recommended. After going through this work step several times, it becomes really easy. Alternatively the tail pushrod guides can be put on, before the tail rotor housing is installed. The flexible mounting effectively absorbs the vibration of the tail pushrod 350.

44. The mountings should be placed so that the intervening distances of the tail pushrod are roughly equal. 2.5mm pushrod studs 087 are glued into the carbon tail pushrod 350 using two-part epoxy resin. Onto the rudder horn of the tail rotor servo, in this case a Futuba 4-times-cross-arm is used. In the outermost hole of the servo arm is screwed a hex bolt M2x10 099, a 4.8mm ball D118 and an M2 washer 001, after drilling out the arm hole to a diameter of 1.8mm (5/64”). From the underside it will be secured with an M2 washer 001 and an M2 lock nut 007.

45. The tail servo arm will be adjusted square to the servo, but will also not be screwed together yet. You now prepare about a thumbnail size amount of epoxy resin 1:1 (mix thoroughly!) and glue the 4 eyelet bushes 316 onto the x2 5.5mm CF tail boom supports D75.

46. The tail boom supports are screwed together loosely with the boom support clasp D76, using a hex bolt M3x40 D93 and lock nut 008. The front eyelet bushes are screwed on, using distance bushes D79 and a hex bolt M3x14 D84. After that the boom support clamp D76 is aligned and tightened up. Now the threaded pushrod links are glued into the CF tail rotor push rod 350. For this we first apply epoxy resin into the cut CF rod and also some on the tail threaded link. The link is inserted into the CF pushrod with about 7 to 8mm remaining outside.

47. With the help of a heat gun the epoxy can be hardened in about 2 minutes, slowly turning the rod in the heat blast. After cooling, twist on a ball joint 041 and clip it to the front of the servo arm. The servo arm has to be aligned square and put on the tail rotor in a 0° setting angle. Then you can use a marker to put a line at the end of the ball joint 041, previously clipped onto the bell crank, and cut the CF pushrod about 2-3mm shorter with a Dremel or Proxxon. Once the pushrod is cut to length the threaded pushrod and ball link can be epoxied into the CF pushrod and clipped onto the servo once the epoxy has hardened.

48. The servo cables can be fixed to the left body wall with a cable tie, so that they cannot move to the right under the elevator servo arm during operation. The gold motor bullet connectors will now be soldered on in the regular way (female on the live side) and insulated. For the motor, 4mm connectors are sufficient, for the battery 5.5 or 6mm connectors should be used, for the lowest possible resistance.

49. The ESC can be attached to the ESC mount with two cable ties. The cables can be run as shown on the pictures. When attaching live cables to the body rods please remember that carbon fiber is electrically conductive and in the worst case scenario the chaffing of insulation can lead to an electrical short. With this the mechanical assembly of the Diabolo is completed. The installation and adjustment of the different Flybarless-systems will be dealt with in a separate area.